Two brown envelopes (NOT TO BE OPENED)
Three copies of everything
16 passport photos
40 hours at the FRRO and MHA (across 9 visits)
1000 Rs in auto fairs
Mix it all with a large dose of frustration, required patience and random queue number systems and what do you get?
One visa extended.
The Afghans clearly “own” the FRRO. They have divided the seats of the waiting section into a male side and a female side (there is no such official division as far as I know), and they are trying to enforce it stringently.
One of the ladies has been talking about moving me (in pushto) for the past 5 min. Not one being big on such appropriation of public space by any group I am stubbornly remaining in the seat I sat in when I came.
I am glad I am not a national of Afghanistan – then I would be number 100-something, being “other national (non-Afghan)” I am just number 18.